Sue Watt discovers how a country once ravaged -part 2

2011-01-26 16:19:30

In the heart of the bush, at Gorongosa National Park, Zimbabweans Rob and Jos Janisch are doing just that with their tented camp, Explore Gorongosa. It is dark when we arrive after a potholed three-hour drive from Beira. ‘Just shout when you’re ready for dinner – there are a few lions around here, so someone will escort you. Better safe than sorry.’ Rob’s parting shot after he’d
shown us to our tent is one to concentrate the mind. I’m tempted to head straight for the inviting double bed complete with
teddy bear, but the temptation of a gin and tonic at the bar proves stronger.

We accomplish the 100-metre walk to the mess tent without incident but, that night, as I lie in my tent, two male lions break the silence, roaring under the moonlit sky. It’s strangely reassuring – this is exactly how Gorongosa should be. Gorongosa national park has had a turbulent history. A one-time game-spotting favourite for Hollywood A-listers such as John Wayne and Gregory Peck in the 1960s, it was once teeming both with wildlife
and visitors. But after Mozambique’s independence from Portugal in 1975,

Gorongosa became embroiled in its fearsome 16-year civil war between government forces Frelimo and Rhodesianbacked
rebels Renamo.
With both sides needing food and funding for arms, Gorongosa provided both: its elephants were slaughtered for ivory and other game was gunned down for meat. When peace finally came, trophy
hunters and poachers had free reign to take what was left of the wildlife, leaving it decimated. It became the forgotten park, 4,000 sq km of beautiful wilderness that’s now the subject of an award-winning National Geographic documentary that is appropriately entitled Africa’s Lost Eden. The film focuses on the beginnings of Gorongosa’s amazing turnaround, thanks largely to the efforts of US philanthropist Greg Carr and a 20-year, $25m partnership between his not-for-profit organisation, the Carr Foundation, and the
Mozambican government. Carr realised that sustainable tourism was the key to Gorongosa’s restoration, providing employment, education and, ultimately, empowerment to the local communities while at the same time conserving and protecting the natural environment that drew the tourists in the first place. The park and tourist camp Chitengo now employ around 300 locals and Carr is helping the 250,000 people living in its buffer zone to build schools,
computer centres and clinics ine ach village. Local people will be
taught the benefits of conservation of the ecosystem. To that end its new residents: elephants, hippos, buffalo and wildebeest have been transported, mainly from South Africa, and impala populations
are blossoming, providing tempting prey for the returning predators.
Explore Gorongosa, a low-impact, luxury tented camp and the only private concession here, works closely with the park and
brilliantly exemplifies the philosophy of responsible tourism. Only in its second season, it is already looking to add to its four simple, yet creatively styled tents, each with outdoor bathrooms encircled by bamboo fencing that simultaneously exposes you to the elements while effectively protecting your privacy. The mess tent/bar lies on the banks of the Msicadzi River, with kingfishers
and barbets frequently darting across the water. A candle-lit dinner is eaten underneath an elegant wood and wrought-iron
chandelier hanging in a tree and most of the food is
locally sourced, from fresh vegetables to an amazing array of goats’ cheeses. Local people also supply the reed mats and hand-carved furniture in the camp and, most importantly, provide the
workforce for the lodge. On a walking safari along the river, Rob
explains the future plans for Gorongosa, with tenders for six new concessions currently being considered, each bringing new employment opportunities.‘We came in on a bit of a guinea pig contract, helping the park to see how ecotourism would work out. The impact on the communities is so important – they need to see the reality of the park making their lifestyles better. The minute they don’t see that is the minute they’ll say why can’t we live here and eat the game and grow our crops?’ Gorongosa is exquisitely beautiful, with abundant birdlife. Although wildlife isn’t yet prolific, unsurprisingly, there’s a feeling of being at the start of something that’s really special. Rob adds: ‘It’s not the finished product in
terms of game viewing, but at the moment we’re selling the story of the wilderness. In time it’ll become a classic game-viewing scenario. Even in the 18 months or so since we’ve been here, we’ve seen animals moving in and breeding, seen the progress
– that’s the exciting part.’ It’s not just a story of the wilderness,
though, it’s a story of hope and positivity, a genuine desire to improve things all round for communities and conservation. In fact,
it’s a good news story that seems to permeate the whole of Mozambique and one that will hopefully run and run.

Source: CNN Traveller by Sue Watt